Getting your tile choice and DIY work right is all about knowing the options. So here’s a guide to help understand everything about tiles—from identifying the right shade variations or slip ratings, to installation guides and more.
Tiles are safe materials that come from the earth, they don’t contain any plastic, and are completely recyclable. They don’t release VOC’s (Volatile Organic Compounds) or Radon and do not contain formaldehyde or asbestos. Tiles are one of the most hygienic materials. They are odourless and are easily cleaned with common household products. A perfect solution for people who suffer allergies and asthma. Tiles are available in an infinite variety of sizes and surface finishes. They are suitable for any environment, ideal for floors and walls, worktops and tables. Tiles are durable, UV-resistant and unalterable materials that can be easily cleaned, and do not degrade over time. In the event of a fire, tiles do not give off substances that are harmful to people or to the environment, because they simply do not burn. Tiles are strong materials that do not change shape. They are frost resistant, and they stand up to the most aggressive chemical detergents. Tiles are a gentle surface for pets and scratch resistant to their claws. Tiles are also very easy to clean any little accidents pets may leave behind. Tiles require very little upkeep and are easy to clean, saving time on household chores. Tiles are durable and their glaze makes them the ideal waterproof flooring. Tiles are the perfect solution, not only for wet areas (such as bathrooms and kitchens), but for other areas that may induce accidental spill, from children, pets and parties (lounge, dining and bedrooms). Underfloor heating is an amazing solution to those cold winters, to keep our toes warm. Under tile heating is more effective than most other flooring solutions, because it has good thermal conductivity. Tiles heat up quicker, give off more heat and is more efficient to run.Why Choose Tiles
The Qualities and Benefits of Tiles (Ceramic & Porcelain)
SAFE
HYGIENIC
VERSATILE
LONG-LASTING
DOES NOT BURN
RESISTANT
PET FRIENDLY
LOW MAINTENANCE
WATERPROOF
UNDERFLOOR HEATING COMPATIBLE
Porcelain tiles are merely a form of ceramic tiles. Whilst the preparation of ceramic and porcelain tiles are similar, it is the pressing and firing process which results in the porcelain tile having the superior characteristics of being much stronger and less porous, generally with a water absorption rate of 0.5% or less. Glazed Tiles have a surface that is covered by a coloured layer of glaze. This gives tiles important design characteristics such as colour, texture, decoration, shades of colour etc. And technical characteristics such as hardness, impermeability to water etc. Once a porcelain tile has been glazed, no further treatment is required, in the sense that these tiles are considered non porous. All these characteristics, both technical and aesthetic, depend on the type of glaze and may vary greatly. Unglazed tiles, are perfectly uniform both in surface and in thickness, and normally have no decoration or patterns. Unglazed tiles comes in many finishes including Polished porcelain tiles. It is therefore recommended that (unless you are advised otherwise) these tiles should be sealed.A Guide to Tiles
Types of Tiles:
What is a Porcelain Tile?
What are the Types of Porcelain Tiles?
Glazed
Unglazed & Polished Porcelain Tiles
What Are the Finishes of Porcelain Tiles?
Does My Porcelain Tile Require Sealing? (Non-glazed tiles only)
Near-perfect straight edges and exact dimensions. These tiles provide a very clean, symmetrical look, and allow for extremely fine grout lines of 3mm or less. Laying rectified tiles is a slower process than laying traditional “pressed” edge tiles and may also cost more even though they are straight edge. If you are going to lay rectified tiles, we recommend you also use a levelling system to insure a level finishes free of lippage. Pressed edged tiles or cushion edged tiles have a “rolled” edge which means the grout joint will be larger than a rectified tiles as the tiles cannot be laid as closely together. The cost to install these is generally less than rectified tiles. Rectified tiles may take longer and be slightly more expensive to lay, however they aesthetic appeal of the smaller grout joints in conjunction with the use of a proper levelling system to ensure a perfect job, will far outweigh any cost. It will also allow you to better line up grout joints to create a seamless floor tile or wall tile design.Types of Tile Edges
Rectified
Pressed
Summary
Most dust pressed tiles have a tolerance of + or – 0.5% of its length and width. Many manufacturers, however, grade their tiles by size (calibre) to much tighter tolerances than allowed. It is not unusual for a 330 x 330mm floor tile to only vary 1mm in a batch when the standards allow a tolerance up to 3mm.Standard Tolerances
Tile shade variation is part of the porcelain and ceramic tile manufacturing process. It is not a defect. Almost every porcelain and ceramic tile has some degree of variation, even in the same production run (batch). The shades of the tiles may be similar to those from previous batches, but they’re unlikely to be the same. It’s therefore best to buy all material to be installed at the same time.
Ideally tiles from different batches shouldn’t be laid together. If for some reason they must be, then it’s wise to carefully compare tiles from each batch before installation.
Please note: In-store display tiles are an indication of the tile. Colour and design my vary between sample and actual tiles supplied.
Tile printing technology is always advancing, meaning there are now greater ranges in patterns and shades incorporated into tile design. Tiles imitate natural materials like stone, timber or marble—all of which vary substantially in appearance, and often have a unique look.
Tile shade variation ratings indicate the degree to which a tile’s colour, tone and texture vary among individual tiles. Tile shade variations are categorised from V0 – V4, and are usually detailed in the product’s technical specifications. See Tile Variation Categories below for more details. When choosing your tiles, we recommend checking the shade variation rating, if available. We also recommend you dry lay V3 and V4 tiles prior to installation—to make sure you’re happy with the range of variation, and the overall look.
V0 = Very Uniform AppearancePieces of the same shade value are very uniform and smooth in texture, with little or no variation. |
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V1 = Uniform AppearanceDifferences among pieces from the same production run (batch) are minimal. |
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V2 = Slight VariationClearly distinguishable differences in texture and/or pattern within similar colours. |
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V3 = Moderate VariationWhile the colours and/or texture present on a single piece of tile will be indicative of the colours and/or texture to be expected on the other tiles, the amount of colours and/or texture on each piece may vary significantly. It is recommended that the range be viewed before selection. |
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V4 = Substantial VariationRandom colour and/or texture differences from tile to tile, so that one tile may have totally different colours and/or texture from that on other tiles. Thus, the final installation will be unique. It is recommended that the range be viewed before selection. |
Slip ratings help us all make safe choices for tiles that suit our areas, from pools to kitchens, bathrooms to laundries and more.
The Pendulum Test measures resistance to friction between two surfaces—in this case a wet tile and a foot-shaped object fitted with a rubber slider. It takes its name from being mounted on a pendulum arm, which imitates a standard shoe sole striking a wet tile.
Pendulum Classification | Skid Resistance Value (SRV) | Slip Risk |
---|---|---|
P0 | Below 12 | Very High |
P1 | 12-24 | Very High |
P2 | 25-34 | High |
P3 | 34-44 | Moderate |
P4 | 45-54 | Low |
P5 | Over 54 | Very Low |
This test sees tiles laid on a ramp with lubricating oil applied to them. Testers walk on the sloped tiles to pinpoint the exact angle at which the tiles become unsafe—and this angle determines the degree of slip resistance.
Slip Resistance | Corrected Mean Acceptance Angle (degrees) | Slip Risk |
---|---|---|
R9 | 6-10 | Very High |
R10 | 10-19 | High |
R11 | 19-27 | Moderate |
R12 | 27-35 | Low |
R13 | Over 35 | Very Low |
The Australian Building Code and Australian Standards mandate slip rated flooring in residential buildings only apply to the following areas:
A residential building that does not have tiles in any of the above areas has no requirement for slip resistant flooring.
Location | Ramp |
---|---|
External colonnade, walkway and pedestrian crossings | R10 |
External ramps | R11 |
Entry foyers hotel, office, public buildings - wet | R10 |
Entry foyers hotel, office, public buildings - dry | R9 |
Shopping centre - excluding food court | R9 |
Shopping centre - food court | R10 |
Internal ramps, slopes (greater than 2 degrees) - dry | R10 |
Lift lobbies above external entry level | R9 |
Other seperate shops inside shopping centres | R9 |
Other shops with external entrances - entry area | R10 |
Fast food outlets, buffet food servery areas | R10 |
Hospitals and aged care facilities - dry areas | R9 |
Hospitals and aged care facilities - ensuites | A or R10 |
Supermarket aisles - except fresh food areas | R9 |
Shop and supermarket fresh fruit and vegetable areas | R10 |
Communal changing rooms | A |
Swimming pool surrounds and communal shower rooms | B |
Swimming pool ramps and stairs leading into water | C |
Toilet facilities in offices, hotels, shopping centres | R10 |
Undercover concourse areas of sports stadiums | R10 |
Accessible internal stair nosings (dry) - handrails present | R10 |
Accessible internal stair nosings (wet) - handrails present | B or R11 |
External star nosings | R11 |
The creation of a beautiful well completed new or renovated bathroom, kitchen or any other area with wall or floor tile installations is a very satisfying experience. To ensure that there are no expensive errors, regrets or on-going maintenance problems, and that you actually have achieved what you intended, usually requires the skill and experience of a professional tile layer. As tile layer registration, accreditation or endorsement is not compulsory in all states in Australia, it is sometimes a concern as to who you actually choose to install your tiles. The following steps should be of assistance. It is very important for you to know the cost involved. A written quotation demonstrates that both parties understand what work needs to be done to achieve an excellent job. The more detail in the quote, the better, as it assists avoid disputes at a later date. You should agree on the price prior to any work starting. Ask the tiler for their references, whether they are qualified and their trade experience. Obtain 2 or 3 quotations. This will give you a realistic idea of how much the installation should cost. Remember that price is not the only criteria and that you may only get what you pay for. A reputable tradesperson will always allow you to make contact with 2 or 3 of their recent customers so that you can make enquiries about the quality of their work and their conduct on the job. Price is not everything. Lowest prices could mean poor workmanship, but the most expensive prices do not necessarily guarantee the best workmanship. Remember that workmanship includes presentation, minimum amount of inconvenience, cleanliness and overall professionalism. If the quotation is fair, the references are good, the timing is suitable and you feel comfortable that the tile layer understands what you are trying to achieve, then choosing the right tile layer for your tile installation should be well achievable. Selecting your tiler
Ask for a Written Quotation
Compare Prices
Check References
Ask Yourself These Questions
Look at the Complete Picture
We Want You To Be Absolutely Delighted With Your Tiles. However we need you to ensure that this delivery is exactly what you want. Together, we can ensure that your tiling project is the best. Ensure you discuss the design of your project and your expectations with the tiler and that you include any special arrangements in the contract, for example, the extent of clean up required. Please check the tiles that we have delivered. If there is any concern regarding the quality, shade or defect of the tiles supplied by us, please inform us immediately. However ceramic tiles are a natural product and some variations can be expected in shade and size. Australian standards define the acceptable variation and imperfection allowable in any batch. We will not accept any claims for replacement, repair or reimbursement once tiles have been laid if that claim is for defects, size, shade variation, incorrect delivery or shortage, or any thing that should reasonably have been obvious before laying commenced. It is the responsibility of the tiler, builder or homeowner to check tiles before laying them. If there is any concern regarding the quality, size, colour, shade or variation of the batch on site, the tiles must NOT be laid. If a defect is discovered while tiles are being laid…work MUST STOP IMMEDIATELY AND YOUR SUPPLIER MUST BE CONTACTED. Due to the technical limitations in the manufacturing process, mosaic tiles are subject to greater shade variations than other ceramic tiles. Ensure that you are happy with the colour and shade variation before installing the tiles. That the description corresponds to clients colour selection and the client has inspected and approved the product. That the Shade Code (Tonality No.) and Calibre Code (Size) is the same on ALL cartons. Arrange for your tiles to be delivered well ahead of time. Check the tone or shade markings of all the tile cartons to ensure that you have been supplied with tiles from the same batch. Open two or three cartons and inspect the tiles for correct colour and acceptable shade. Failure to do so may result in disappointment as fixing of the product constitutes acceptance of the product. Ensure that there are sufficient tiles to complete your job, as there are no guarantees that extra tiles of the same batch (colour and shade) can be supplied at a later date. If possible, order more of the same batch (tone) before work commences. It is suggested that a small quantity of extra tiles be kept on site after the job is finished. It can be very difficult to match tiles if repairs are necessary at a later date. That you inspect the tiles for any defects and DO NOT LAY tiles that have visual defects. NO CLAIMS WILL BE ACCEPTED BY THE TILE SUPPLIER AFTER TILES HAVE BEEN LAYED.Choosing Your Tiles
BEFORE YOU LAY YOUR TILES CHECK THEM!
Mosaic Tiles
Prior to laying any tiles the tiler, builder or home owner must check the following:
1. Tiles Received
2. Shade & Size
3. Quantities
4. Defects
As tiling commences, make sure that the light in the room being tiled is as close as possible to the permanent lighting. Ensure the tiler mixes tiles from three or four different boxes so as to ensure proper blending of any colour variation that may exist. As the work progresses, take time to have periodic checks: It is essential that, if you have any doubts or concerns about the job as it progresses, you stop the tiling and immediately contact your tile supplier before tiling any further. Cleaning is the next step of the installation process. Ensure that the tiler removes all; PLEASE NOTE: In the production of tiles, certain technical limitations will occur, which may manifest themselves in the form of minor marks and blemishes. The latter are generally considered a characteristic of the tile and not a defect. Under normal lighting conditions these characteristic marks may not be noticeable. However, they may become obvious when highlighted by some forms of oblique lighting, for example, halogen and high illuminate white lights. All tiled surfaces should be viewed from a distance of 1.5m under non-critical light. Further, make sure your expectations have been met by inspecting the finished job whilst the tiler is still on site.Installing Your Tiles
Laying Your Tiles:
During Laying:
After Laying:
To calculate your area in square meters, multiply the length by the height of each wall to be tiled. When ordering the tiles add an extra 10% for waste & cuts. You will require an even, flat surface to tile on. Preparing the walls is a vital part of the tiling process – failure to do so will result in an unsatisfactory finish. Waterproof wet areas according to the manufacturer’s specifications prior to tiling. To calculate your area in square meters, multiply the length by the width of the room. When ordering tiles, add an extra 10% for waste & cuts (15% if laying diagonally) New concrete is recommended to be l month old for every 25mm thickness and completely dried before tiling. It should also be a wood float finish, flat and free from dirt, dust and oils. Wooden floors must be rigid, stable and capable of the extra load without flexing. Generally an underlay will be required to tile on wooden floors. Generally, it is recommended to use normal or fast setting adhesives. However, always consult your tile merchant for detailed advice and always follow the manufacturer’s instructions. Mix the adhesive as per manufacturer’s instructions and spread with a notch trowel. Place each tile into the adhesive firmly with a backward and forward movement to ensure a solid bed and to prevent any voids under the tile. Be careful to remove any surplus adhesive from the surface of the tile and joints with a damp sponge/cloth. Work in small areas of about l square metre at a time so that the tiles are fixed before the adhesive forms a skin. Occasionally use a spirit level or straight edge to check that the tiles are flat. If needed, remove and adjust the amount of adhesive, being careful not to leave it too long or the adhesive will set. Note: Lippage is inherent in all installations and may be unavoidable due to tile tolerances. To prevent the chance of disturbing the bonding process, do not walk on or grout floor tiles for at least 24 hour, unless a rapid set adhesive has been used. Force the grout into the joints using a grouter, removing all surplus grout from the surface with a sponge and water. Tiling Facts
Wall Tiling
Floor Tiling
Floor Adhesives
Generally, the longer a stain has been left on a tile, the more difficult it will be to remove. Where possible, consult your merchant about the type of stain you are trying to remove, as there are specialist products for cleaning. Many grouts on the market have mould inhibitors which can help reduce mould growth. Mould can still occur if the conditions are severe or if a grout without mould inhibitor has been used. Mould can be removed using specialised grout cleaners. Efflorescence is a white discolouration caused by minerals in the cement that are soluble in water, being dissolved and transported to the surface as the water evaporates. It is most noticeable on dark materials but can occur on any cement based system. This is not normally a problem as only insignificant amounts of white discolouration make it to the surface of the grout during normal curing. However, because it is water soluble, under certain conditions the migration of the discolouration to the surface can be increased. Therefore if the system takes longer to cure or if there is more water present during curing, there is more time available for it to be carried to the surface. Sometimes minor efflorescence can be removed by using normal cleaning methods, whilst more difficult stains can be treated with specific products for your merchant. Ensure the grout has had sufficient time to cure or you may make it worse by increasing the water on the surface. Cleaning and Maintenance of Tiles
Daily Cleaning Guidelines:
General Maintenance
Grout
Efflorescence
Credit: Australian Tile Council. This information is to be used as a guide only and should not be taken to constitute professional advice or a formal recommendation and we exclude all representations and warranties in relation to the content above. All consumers should seek professional advice from Stone3 for their specific and individual application.