Quality starts with knowing your tiles.
Getting your tile choice and DIY work right is all about knowing the options. So here’s a guide to help understand everything about tiles—from identifying the right shade variations or slip ratings, to installation guides and more.
“Why
The Qualities and Benefits of Tiles (Ceramic & Porcelain)
SAFE
Tiles are safe materials that come from the earth, they don’t contain any plastic, and are completely recyclable. They don’t release VOC’s (Volatile Organic Compounds) or Radon and do not contain formaldehyde or asbestos.
HYGIENIC
Tiles are one of the most hygienic materials. They are odourless and are easily cleaned with common household products. A perfect solution for people who suffer allergies and asthma.
VERSATILE
Tiles are available in an infinite variety of sizes and surface finishes. They are suitable for any environment, ideal for floors and walls, worktops and tables.
LONG-LASTING
Tiles are durable, UV-resistant and unalterable materials that can be easily cleaned, and do not degrade over time.
DOES NOT BURN
In the event of a fire, tiles do not give off substances that are harmful to people or to the environment, because they simply do not burn.
RESISTANT
Tiles are strong materials that do not change shape. They are frost resistant, and they stand up to the most aggressive chemical detergents.
PET FRIENDLY
Tiles are a gentle surface for pets and scratch resistant to their claws. Living Room Tiles, for example, are also very easy to clean any little accidents pets may leave behind.
LOW MAINTENANCE
Tiles require very little upkeep and are easy to clean, saving time on household chores.
WATERPROOF
Tiles are durable and their glaze makes them the ideal waterproof flooring. Tiles are the perfect solution, not only for wet areas (such as bathrooms and kitchens), but for other areas that may induce accidental spills, from children, pets and parties (lounge, dining and bedrooms).
UNDERFLOOR HEATING COMPATIBLE
Underfloor heating is an amazing solution to those cold winters, to keep our toes warm. Under tile heating is more effective than most other flooring solutions, because it has good thermal conductivity. Tiles heat up quicker, give off more heat and is more efficient to run.
“A
Types of Tiles:
- Ceramic Tiles
- Porcelain Tiles
- Stone Tiles
- Glass Tiles
What is a Porcelain Tile?
Porcelain tiles are merely a form of ceramic tiles. Whilst the preparation of ceramic and porcelain tiles are similar, it is the pressing and firing process which results in the porcelain tile having the superior characteristics of being much stronger and less porous, generally with a water absorption rate of 0.5% or less.
What are the Types of Porcelain Tiles?
Glazed
Glazed Tiles have a surface that is covered by a coloured layer of glaze. This gives tiles important design characteristics such as colour, texture, decoration, shades of colour etc. And technical characteristics such as hardness, impermeability to water etc. Once a porcelain tile has been glazed, no further treatment is required, in the sense that these tiles are considered non porous. All these characteristics, both technical and aesthetic, depend on the type of glaze and may vary greatly.
Unglazed & Polished Porcelain Tiles
Unglazed tiles, are perfectly uniform both in surface and in thickness, and normally have no decoration or patterns. Unglazed tiles comes in many finishes including Polished porcelain tiles. It is therefore recommended that (unless you are advised otherwise) these tiles should be sealed.
What Are the Finishes of Porcelain Tiles?
- Polished / Gloss: as the name suggests, an elaborate technique is used to finish the tile after the firing process. High quality porcelain or glazed porcelain does not require any further treatment after polishing. Some lower density polished porcelain tiles must be sealed, depending on the manufacturer. A polished surface is not a glaze, so do not be fooled into thinking that polished porcelain is glazed.
- Semi Polished (Lappato): the lappato finish will differ in look and feel depending on the manufacturer
- Matt & Honed porcelain: a flat and smooth finish
- Grip, Rock, & Structured porcelain: this type of porcelain is textured and often used for external purposes
- Matt & Honed porcelain: a flat and smooth finish
Does My Porcelain Tile Require Sealing? (Non-glazed tiles only)
- First and foremost you should ask your tile merchant whether the product you have purchased requires sealing. Then you need to determine what kind of sealer is best suited to your porcelain tile. Generally, the sealing of porcelain tiles is seen as an aide to the prevention of staining. As a rule, due to the low levels of porosity found in porcelain tiles, it is generally accepted that a penetrating sealer be used. Normally it is polished porcelain that requires sealing due to the polishing process causing minute micro pores.
- Some manufacturers pre-seal their products in readiness to the laying process, if your porcelain is not pre-sealed then pre-sealing prior to grouting, should generally be carried out where dark coloured grout is to be used on porous tiles. This will ensure that the colour grout does not bleed into the kitchen tiles for example. In some instances, you may wish to pre-seal dark porcelain tiles where light grout is to be used.
- First and foremost you should ask your tile merchant whether the product you have purchased requires sealing. Then you need to determine what kind of sealer is best suited to your porcelain tile. Generally, the sealing of porcelain tiles is seen as an aide to the prevention of staining. As a rule, due to the low levels of porosity found in porcelain tiles, it is generally accepted that a penetrating sealer be used. Normally it is polished porcelain that requires sealing due to the polishing process causing minute micro pores.
“Types
Rectified
Near-perfect straight edges and exact dimensions. These tiles provide a very clean, symmetrical look, and allow for extremely fine grout lines of 3mm or less. Laying rectified tiles is a slower process than laying traditional “pressed” edge tiles and may also cost more even though they are straight edge. If you are going to lay rectified tiles, we recommend you also use a levelling system to insure a level finishes free of lippage.
Pressed
Pressed edged tiles or cushion edged tiles have a “rolled” edge which means the grout joint will be larger than a rectified tiles as the tiles cannot be laid as closely together. The cost to install these is generally less than rectified tiles.
Summary
Rectified tiles may take longer and be slightly more expensive to lay, however they aesthetic appeal of the smaller grout joints in conjunction with the use of a proper levelling system to ensure a perfect job, will far outweigh any cost. It will also allow you to better line up grout joints to create a seamless floor tile or wall tile design.
“Standard
Most dust pressed tiles have a tolerance of + or – 0.5% of its length and width. Many manufacturers, however, grade their tiles by size (calibre) to much tighter tolerances than allowed. It is not unusual for a 330 x 330mm floor tile to only vary 1mm in a batch when the standards allow a tolerance up to 3mm.
Tile Ratings
“Tile
“Tile
Tiling
“Selecting
The creation of a beautiful well completed new or renovated bathroom, kitchen or any other area with wall or floor tile installations is a very satisfying experience. To ensure that there are no expensive errors, regrets or on-going maintenance problems, and that you actually have achieved what you intended, usually requires the skill and experience of a professional tile layer.
As tile layer registration, accreditation or endorsement is not compulsory in all states in Australia, it is sometimes a concern as to who you actually choose to install your pool tiles.
The following steps should be of assistance.
Ask for a Written Quotation
It is very important for you to know the cost involved. A written quotation from a tile shop Melbourne or Brisbane wide demonstrates that both parties understand what work needs to be done to achieve an excellent job. The more detail in the quote, the better, as it assists avoid disputes at a later date.
You should agree on the price prior to any work starting. Ask the tiler for their references, whether they are qualified and their trade experience.
Compare Prices
Obtain 2 or 3 quotations. This will give you a realistic idea of how much the installation should cost. Remember that price is not the only criteria and that you may only get what you pay for.
Check References
A reputable tradesperson will always allow you to make contact with 2 or 3 of their recent customers so that you can make enquiries about the quality of their work and their conduct on the job.
Ask Yourself These Questions
- Was the tile layer easily contactable?
- Did they arrive on time?
- Do they appear content to do the job?
- Do they appear to have time to do the job?
- Was the quotation delivered on time, fairly priced and did it cover all work required?
- Has the tile layer returned my calls?
- Am I comfortable with this person to handle my work?
Look at the Complete Picture
Price is not everything. Lowest prices could mean poor workmanship, but the most expensive prices do not necessarily guarantee the best workmanship. Remember that workmanship includes presentation, minimum amount of inconvenience, cleanliness and overall professionalism.
If the quotation is fair, the references are good, the timing is suitable and you feel comfortable that the tile layer understands what you are trying to achieve, then choosing the right tile layer for your tile installation should be well achievable.
“Choosing
BEFORE YOU LAY YOUR TILES CHECK THEM!
We Want You To Be Absolutely Delighted With Your Tiles. However we need you to ensure that this delivery is exactly what you want. Together, we can ensure that your tiling project is the best. Ensure you discuss the design of your project and your expectations with the tiler and that you include any special arrangements in the contract, for example, the extent of clean up required.
Please check the tiles that we have delivered. If there is any concern regarding the quality, shade or defect of the tiles supplied by us, please inform us immediately.
However ceramic tiles are a natural product and some variations can be expected in shade and size. Australian standards define the acceptable variation and imperfection allowable in any batch.
We will not accept any claims for replacement, repair or reimbursement once tiles have been laid if that claim is for defects, size, shade variation, incorrect delivery or shortage, or any thing that should reasonably have been obvious before laying commenced.
It is the responsibility of the tiler, builder or homeowner to check tiles before laying them. If there is any concern regarding the quality, size, colour, shade or variation of the batch on site, the tiles must NOT be laid.
If a defect is discovered while tiles are being laid…work MUST STOP IMMEDIATELY AND YOUR SUPPLIER MUST BE CONTACTED.
Mosaic Tiles
Due to the technical limitations in the manufacturing process, mosaic tiles are subject to greater shade variations than other ceramic tiles. Ensure that you are happy with the colour and shade variation before installing the tiles.
Prior to laying any tiles the tiler, builder or home owner must check the following:
1. Tiles Received
That the description corresponds to clients colour selection and the client has inspected and approved the product.
2. Shade & Size
That the Shade Code (Tonality No.) and Calibre Code (Size) is the same on ALL cartons. Arrange for your tiles to be delivered well ahead of time. Check the tone or shade markings of all the tile cartons to ensure that you have been supplied with tiles from the same batch. Open two or three cartons and inspect the tiles for correct colour and acceptable shade. Failure to do so may result in disappointment as fixing of the product constitutes acceptance of the product.
3. Quantities
Ensure that there are sufficient tiles to complete your job, as there are no guarantees that extra tiles of the same batch (colour and shade) can be supplied at a later date. If possible, order more of the same batch (tone) before work commences. It is suggested that a small quantity of extra tiles be kept on site after the job is finished. It can be very difficult to match tiles if repairs are necessary at a later date.
4. Defects
That you inspect the tiles for any defects and DO NOT LAY tiles that have visual defects.
NO CLAIMS WILL BE ACCEPTED BY THE TILE SUPPLIER AFTER TILES HAVE BEEN LAYED.
“Installing
Laying Your Tiles:
- In all cases the appropriate type of adhesive must be used. The substrate must also be adequate for the material to be used, that is, the flatness of the surface is paramount. If not tile lipping may occur.
- In the case of floors, uneven surfaces may be levelled out with the use of a floor leveller or floor screed. Your tile fixer should be able to guide you through any questions you may have, so don’t be afraid to ask.
During Laying:
As tiling commences, make sure that the light in the room being tiled is as close as possible to the permanent lighting. Ensure the tiler mixes tiles from three or four different boxes so as to ensure proper blending of any colour variation that may exist.
As the work progresses, take time to have periodic checks:
- Ensure that the blend and effect is maintained and no defective tiles are laid.
- It is highly recommended that hidden areas (under the stove, fridges, in pantries and cupboards) or detached areas (toilets and laundry floors) are tiled last so that if extra tiles are needed, batching will not be crucial.
- Always clean adhesive, grout and wax from the surface of tiles.
- Ensure that the blend and effect is maintained and no defective tiles are laid.
It is essential that, if you have any doubts or concerns about the job as it progresses, you stop the tiling and immediately contact your tile supplier before tiling any further.
After Laying:
Cleaning is the next step of the installation process. Ensure that the tiler removes all;
- Wax on Porcelain – In some instances, the manufacturer will coat their tiles with a protective wax layer. You should consult your tile merchant about the timing and removal technique for the protective layer.
- Physical protection layers – As the name suggests, this is the presence of a film on the tiles typically to protect it in transit. We would recommend this layer be removed from the tile prior to grouting in most cases, depending on the type of layer present.
- Grout Haze / Residue – . The tiling contractor should not leave any adhesive or grout residue on the tile surface. Normally, there is a requirement for some post installation cleaning. Damage can occur to tiles if incorrect chemicals or cleaning methods are used.
- Ensure that any polished or honed porcelain tiles are thoroughly cleaned and then sealed. Before sealing the tiles it is essential that all cementitious and wax residues be removed from the tiles. Failure to do so will result in these contaminants being trapped below the surface of the sealer.
PLEASE NOTE: In the production of tiles, certain technical limitations will occur, which may manifest themselves in the form of minor marks and blemishes. The latter are generally considered a characteristic of the tile and not a defect. Under normal lighting conditions these characteristic marks may not be noticeable. However, they may become obvious when highlighted by some forms of oblique lighting, for example, halogen and high illuminate white lights. All tiled surfaces should be viewed from a distance of 1.5m under non-critical light. Further, make sure your expectations have been met by inspecting the finished job whilst the tiler is still on site.
“Tiling
Wall Tiling
To calculate your area in square meters, multiply the length by the height of each wall to be tiled. When ordering the tiles add an extra 10% for waste & cuts. You will require an even, flat surface to tile on. Preparing the walls is a vital part of the tiling process – failure to do so will result in an unsatisfactory finish. Waterproof wet areas according to the manufacturer’s specifications prior to tiling.
Floor Tiling
To calculate your area in square meters, multiply the length by the width of the room. When ordering tiles, add an extra 10% for waste & cuts (15% if laying diagonally)
New concrete is recommended to be l month old for every 25mm thickness and completely dried before tiling. It should also be a wood float finish, flat and free from dirt, dust and oils. Wooden floors must be rigid, stable and capable of the extra load without flexing. Generally an underlay will be required to tile on wooden floors.
Floor Adhesives
Generally, it is recommended to use normal or fast setting adhesives. However, always consult your tile merchant for detailed advice and always follow the manufacturer’s instructions. Mix the adhesive as per manufacturer’s instructions and spread with a notch trowel. Place each tile into the adhesive firmly with a backward and forward movement to ensure a solid bed and to prevent any voids under the tile. Be careful to remove any surplus adhesive from the surface of the tile and joints with a damp sponge/cloth.
Work in small areas of about l square metre at a time so that the tiles are fixed before the adhesive forms a skin. Occasionally use a spirit level or straight edge to check that the tiles are flat. If needed, remove and adjust the amount of adhesive, being careful not to leave it too long or the adhesive will set.
Note: Lippage is inherent in all installations and may be unavoidable due to tile tolerances.
To prevent the chance of disturbing the bonding process, do not walk on or grout floor tiles for at least 24 hour, unless a rapid set adhesive has been used. Force the grout into the joints using a grouter, removing all surplus grout from the surface with a sponge and water.
“Cleaning
Daily Cleaning Guidelines:
- Sweep or vacuum loose dirt off the floor.
- Use a proprietary cleaner, following the manufacturers instructions
- Remove the cleaning solution with a clean mop or vacuum.
- Rinse with clean water.
- Remove water from the floor by drying and buffing with a dry towel or mop.
General Maintenance
- Glazed Ceramic and Porcelain Tiles – Maintaining these surfaces can be achieved by sweeping or vacuuming and then washing the area using a specialised tile cleaning agent available from your tile merchant. Rinse surface thoroughly afterwards, using clean water. Residual streaks, detergent marks and films can be a result from excessive use of cleaning agents.
- Unglazed Tiles – All unglazed products do have a level of surface porosity which usually means more attention is required to retain cleanliness. Spills or accidents that result in contaminates on the surface may stain. Often, unglazed tiles are sealed for ease of maintenance or future cleaning.
- Glass and Metallic – When cleaning these tiles be careful not to use abrasive applicators such as scouring sponges.
- In some instances, on advice from your tile merchant only, acidic cleaners may be needed for optimal results. These products must be recommended by your merchant as suitable for your particular tile application.
- Do not use acid, unless recommended by your merchant, to clean fully glazed tiles as this may affect or damage the surface.
Generally, the longer a stain has been left on a tile, the more difficult it will be to remove. Where possible, consult your merchant about the type of stain you are trying to remove, as there are specialist products for cleaning.
Grout
Many grouts on the market have mould inhibitors which can help reduce mould growth. Mould can still occur if the conditions are severe or if a grout without mould inhibitor has been used. Mould can be removed using specialised grout cleaners.
Efflorescence
Efflorescence is a white discolouration caused by minerals in the cement that are soluble in water, being dissolved and transported to the surface as the water evaporates. It is most noticeable on dark materials but can occur on any cement based system.
This is not normally a problem as only insignificant amounts of white discolouration make it to the surface of the grout during normal curing. However, because it is water soluble, under certain conditions the migration of the discolouration to the surface can be increased. Therefore if the system takes longer to cure or if there is more water present during curing, there is more time available for it to be carried to the surface.
Sometimes minor efflorescence can be removed by using normal cleaning methods, whilst more difficult stains can be treated with specific products for your merchant. Ensure the grout has had sufficient time to cure or you may make it worse by increasing the water on the surface.
Credit: Australian Tile Council. This information is to be used as a guide only and should not be taken to constitute professional advice or a formal recommendation and we exclude all representations and warranties in relation to the content above. All consumers should seek professional advice from Stone3 for their specific and individual application.